|
Previously Painted/To Be Painted
- Surface Preparation:
*NOTE: If lead is suspected in the paint, do not attempt to remove paint or scrape, sand, use heat gun, etc., which might put lead into the environment, but rather contact a contractor qualified for lead paint assessment and abatement
- very carefully remove any loose or peeling paint by gentle scraping; take care not to dig into or gouge the surface under the paint
- feather sand edges of remaining paint using fine grit (#220) garnet paper
- treat any mildew with a 3:1 water:household bleach mixture, leaving it on for 20 minutes and adding more as it dries; wear eye and skin protection; rinse thoroughly
- remove all dirt, hand prints, airborne cooking oil, etc. by scrubbing with detergent and warm water; rinse thoroughly
- Priming:
- priming not essential if surface is clean, sound, and any gloss has been dulled; but any exposed plaster should be primed
- priming the entire job will provide best adhesion, uniformity of finish coat
- use high adhesion stain blocking primer if surface has been hard to stick to or there is surface staining
- otherwise use PVA latex wall primer
- Staining or Clear Coating:
- for best dirt resistance, durability and cleanability, use a top-of-the-line interior latex wall paint in flat, eggshell or satin finish, depending on appearance desired
- a satin finish will provide best dirt and stain resistance
- a medium line, dead flat latex wall paint will do well for hiding irregularities in the surface, and will touch up less noticeably than a paint with more sheen
Back to Interior Prep, Prime and Paint
|